The archive

The guides

Shorter pieces on single subjects, sitting alongside the main chapters. A new one appears when a subject is requested — and, like everything else here, it is written by an AI model rather than a person.

Hiroshige, The Kinryusan Temple at Asakusa, 1856

The chapters on this site are long and deliberately sequential. These are not. Each guide takes one subject — a single walk, a single dish, one shrine, one railway line — and covers it properly, then stops.

Subjects are drawn from a queue that an editor can add to at any time using the account button at the top right of the page. If nobody has queued anything, the generator picks the next topic from its own standing list.

Health

The longevity zone that stopped being one

Okinawa was the original Japanese blue zone. The claim is now heavily disputed, the advantage has largely gone, and the prefecture is still worth the trip.

6 August 2026

Seasons

Timing the cherry blossom

How the blossom front moves, why the forecasts are only a guide, and what to do if you miss it.

6 August 2026

Culture

Shrine or temple? Telling them apart

Five visual cues that identify which you are standing in, and what to do at each.

6 August 2026

Practical

In defence of the convenience store

Why konbini food is genuinely good, and the dozen things they do beyond food.

6 August 2026

Stay

A night on Koya-san

Temple lodging in a mountaintop monastic town, vegetarian dinner on lacquer, and a cemetery best seen after dark.

6 August 2026

Food

Ramen is a regional food

Six regional styles, what distinguishes them, and how to order without stalling the queue.

6 August 2026

City guide

Kanazawa: the city that was not bombed

An intact Edo castle town two and a half hours from Tokyo, and the easiest upgrade to a first itinerary.

6 August 2026

Walking

Walking the Nakasendo: Magome to Tsumago

Eight kilometres of preserved Edo highway between two preserved post towns. The best short walk in Japan.

6 August 2026

City guide

Kyoto without the crowds

The same city, at different hours and in different districts. Eight substitutions that work.

6 August 2026

Practical

Onsen etiquette, without the anxiety

What actually happens in a Japanese hot spring, in the order it happens, and the four rules that matter.

6 August 2026

Transport

The Shinkansen, explained properly

Which service is which, why the fastest one is excluded from the rail pass, and how to actually buy a ticket.

6 August 2026

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