The main styles
- Hakata (Fukuoka) — thin straight noodles in a rich, opaque tonkotsu pork-bone broth. Order kaedama, an extra noodle refill, when the bowl is half done.
- Sapporo — miso-based, robust, often with butter and sweetcorn. Cold-climate food, and it makes sense in February.
- Kitakata (Fukushima) — flat, wavy, chewy noodles in a light soy and pork broth. Eaten for breakfast locally.
- Tokyo — the classic shoyu style: clear brown soy broth, curly noodles, menma, nori, chashu.
- Wakayama — soy and pork bone together, with pressed mackerel sushi on the counter to eat while you wait.
- Tsukemen — noodles and broth served separately, the broth concentrated, for dipping. A whole discipline of its own.
How to order
Many shops use a ticket machine by the door. Put money in first, then press. The top-left button is usually the house special. Hand the ticket to the counter and sit.
Some shops ask about firmness (katame for firm), richness and oil. If in doubt, futsuu — normal — for everything.
Slurping is functional: it cools the noodles and aerates the broth. Eat quickly; ramen is not a lingering meal, and at a counter with a queue outside, finishing and leaving is the courtesy.
The best bowl you have will almost certainly be in a shop with six seats and no English sign.